From suction cup remark, I'll try to go slow.
1. Unplug your game!
2. Ground that "suction cup" to discharge CRT. 2 screwdrivers would
be    the easiest. Stick one of them under the metal frame by the
   "suction cup". Now use the second screwdriver to slide under the
   "suction cup" while in contact with the 1st(on the metal & without
   you touching any metal)until you here it snap. Hold it there for a   
few moments to completely discharge.
3. Gently remove the neck board from the back of the picture tube.
   Be sure to check for glue "gob" that might be holding it in place.
   If you find one, you'll have to cut it loose with a razor
   knife (carefully).
4. Take the 2 screws holding the chasis to the frame out.
5. Slide the chassis back and look for the yoke plug which 
   is located in front of the flyback xformer (where that
   "suction cup" wire goes). It is usually gray in color and
   has 4 wires coming out, red...blue...green....yellow.
6. Unplug from chassis. You will notice that there is a
   larger spacing between the red wire and the blue wire.
7. What you must do now is cut this plug in half so that
   the red & blue wires can be reversed as well as the
   yellow & green.
8. Put the now 2 plugs back on the header (posts/male connector)
   with the cut sides to the outside. The spacing between the red
   & blue wires prevents you from making a mistake. If you
   have one reversed it will only make you have a mirror image.
9. Put the chassis back the way you found it and your picture
   should be right.
10. If you go back in with a jamma board later, you should be
    able to flip your picture back with a dip switch on most.

Hope I didn't put any techs to sleep, but figured it had to go 
slow after reading about the "suction cup" (anode).