Info
This is the environmental version which you stand inside being immersed in the Tron experience. I bought this at the San Jose auction in '98. Wow, it's heavy! I had two friends help me load it on my truck at the auction, but when I got home, I had nobody to help me unload it. I managed to get it off the truck safely by sliding it off the back of the truck so the heavy part rested on the ground and the light part rested on the tailgate. I then put an old mattress under it and drove the truck out from under it, letting it plop safely onto the mattress. Then I put my hand truck on the side of the cabinet, found a nice balance point, tilted it back and slowly wheeled it into the garage into the position it will stay forever. ;-)
The game worked, but had lots of little problems. There was no speech, so I tested all the voltages to all the boards and found there was no -5v on the speech board. Ohming the wiring from the connector back to the power supply showed an open circuit... close inspection revealed a broken -5v wire on the harness at the power supply connector. Soldered that back on and Sark was back to his old chatty self.
The two rows of lights above the monitors didn't sequence and two or three were stuck on. This turned out to be bad transistors on sequencer board. A trip to Radio Shack and a little soldering and those were working nicely.
The rear fluorescent light assembly (the one that lights the artwork that the monitor image is reflected onto) was physically broken. I bought a Tron fluorescent light assembly for parts and in mid-2001, met a rather nice fellow named Lance Lewis who had the misfortune of having to part out an eDoT due to a sudden, unwanted, catastrophic, rapid disassembly of his game. I had him over to test some of his parts in my machine and he sold and gave me the parts I needed to get my rear fluorescent going. He even gave me a back door (mine cracked in half!).
Shortly after getting that fixed, a few of the transistors on the light sequencer board went out again. Bleh. They couldn't have had more than 2 hours of usage on them since I replaced them. I decided to ask the experts on rgvac if there was a more robust version of that transistor and I was told that the TIP122 would work much better but the pinouts were different. I bought some and figured out how to make them work in place of the originals and the lights are now happily sequencing again.
The spinner started acting oddly by moving the targeting crosshair in the same direction no matter which way you spun it. I ended up fixing that by loosening, repositioning and tightening the optical sensor.
The test switch needs to be replaced. I have to manually short the contacts on the back of the switch to get into test mode.
The monitor could use a cap kit for some slight pincushioning and fold-over, but it's not that bad and it doesn't look easy to get the monitor out, so I've been putting that off.
I bought a repro control panel overlay to replace the one with cracks at the bends. I hate removing old overlays, so I managed to convince my buddy Lance Lewis to install it for me in trade for an NOS Burgertime CPO I had. Looks great. Thanks Lance!
There was some graffiti on the inside of the cabinet that came off pretty easy with some rubbing alcohol.
The mirrored plastic on the inner sides of the monitor area needs to be replaced. I removed it completely leaving the plain black sides. I need to find a source for new mylar mirror material and cut it to the right shape. I'll need to clean the old adheasive off the sides and decide on a new adheasive.
The floor of the cabinet needs to be replaced. I bought a repro floor graphic, but still haven't figured out how to get someone else to install it for me. ;-)
I picked up a new black light cover off eBay that goes above the control panel since mine was faded and crusty.
The rear half of the cabinet is coming apart from the front on the lower right side. I need to reinforce that before I try moving this thing again.
The game has recently developed the dreaded loud hum coming from the speakers, even though it's got an original power supply. Since there was a lot of talk on the newsgroups about this hum getting worse when you installed a switching power supply, I decided to try figuring out the source of my problem and perhaps shed light on the switching supply hum problem. I started by disconnecting power to both sound amps. I powered the game on and the hum was gone. Good. Then I plugged one back in, powered on. No hum. Good. Plugged the other back in, powered on... no hum. Whoa. I guess the problem was the power connector on one of the sound amps wasn't making good contact! Cool.
The game is in good enough condition to enjoy playing, so I've put off doing the finishing touches on this machine and paid attention to others. The picture used in the KLOV is of this very machine. =)

Hacks
The one thing that always bugged me about Discs of Tron was the lack of a freeplay mode. So, I made one. Check out my hacks page for Discs of Tron.